第三篇 10 领子collars 11 高领buiit-up neckl ines 12 垂荡褶领cowls 13 圆裙与瀑布状花边裙skirts／circles and cascades 14 袖子sieeves 15 连肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖kimono，ragian,drop shouider．and exaggerated armho i es 337
第四篇 16 纽扣、纽孔与贴边buttons，buttonholes,and facings 17 衩与袋piackets and pockets 索引 index
1 工作室the workroom 样板制作的工具patternmaking tools 样板纸pattern paper 样板制作的术语patternmaking terms 样板与生产的术语pattern product 1 0n terms 我们过去的状况the way we were 服装产品的制作apparel product developmen 成本计算表cost sheet 样板图表pattern chart 设计明细表desion specifications sheet 省道dart 圆顺曲线、校正线和等分线blen，trueing．and equalizing 标注款式造型线styleline guides 织物术语fabric terms 样板经向丝缕线pattern grain llne 衡线术语balance ll ne terms 特殊情况spe lnforiiatl0n
2 人体模型与测量model form and measurements 谁是理想的标准体型who is the standard ideal figure 化样板的规格pattern i ndustry standards 百货商店的规格department store standards 标准化的其他尝试other attempts at standardizatl0n 美国材料试验协会的标准astm standards 标记术语landmark terms 术语缩写symbol key 测量术语measuring the form 测量围度circumference measurements 水线(hbl)horizontal balance line(hbl) 测量宽度hor i zontal measurements 测量长度vert i cal measurements 测量吊带strap measurements 尺寸规格表standard measurement chart
3 绘制原型样板图drafting the basic pattern set 连衣裙原型样板the basic dress foundatl0n 上衣前片样板草图front bod i ce draft 上衣后片样板草图back bod i ce draft 适体的上衣样板fittlng the bodice 合适的领线fittlng the neckline 合体的袖窿fitting the armhole 裙子样板草图skirt draft 核对样板prepar i ng patterns for test flt 袖子原型样板the basic sleeve 袖山吃势量sleeve cap eas 袖子规格表sleeve measurement char 袖子样板草图sleeve draft 调节袖子适合上衣袖窿adjust l ng sleeve to armhole of bodice 53 无缝份工具样板seamless working patterns 完成样板plet l ng the pattern
4 省道的处理(#1)dart manipulation(principle#1) 概述introductl0n 工具样板worklng patterns 样板制作技术patternmaking techniques 设计分析三个较重要的样板制作 design analysis and the three major patternmaking princlples 样板制作术语patternmak i ng terms 适合度测试test fit 省道的处理dart manlpulatl0n 单省道系列样板——剪切展开技术single-dart series——slash-spread technique 单省道系列样板——旋转移动技术 slngle-dart series——pivotal-transfer techn i oue 肩胛省the shoulder dart 后领省the back neck dart 自评测试self-evaluat i on test 双省道系列样板——剪切展开技术two-dart series——lash-spread techn i que 85 双省道系列——旋转移动技术two-dart ser i es——pivotal-transfer technloue 89 样板评估练self-evaluat i on test
5 省道的设计(开花省、褶裥、扩展褶、抽褶)designing with darts(tuck-darts、pleats，flares．and gathers) 概述lntroductl0n 一组等量省的变化dart clusters and dart equ i valents 一组渐变省和辐射省graduated and radiating darts 行省parallel darts 不对称省asymmetr i c darts 相交省intersecting dart 相交省的设计变化i ntersect i ng dart design variatlons
8 育克、冒肩、细缝裥和缝褶 yokes，flanges，pin tucks，and pleat tucks 上衣中的育克yokes for bodice 冒肩flanges 缝裥与细缝裥pleat tucks and p i n tucks
9 轮廓线(#3)contouring (principie#3) 轮廓线：#3 contouring：principle ＃3 轮廓基准线样板the contour gu i de patterns 传统帝国线the classic empire 斜叠襟surplice(or wrap)designs 露肩式off-shoulder des i gns 露背式吊带胸衣halters
10 领子collas 概述introductl0n 领子的术语collar terms 领座和翻折类型collar stand and roll types 领子的分类collar classiflcations 原型衬衫领的基本样板basic shirt collar foundatl0n 铜盆领peter pan collars 海军领sailor collar 深开领的领子collars with deep open necklines 立领mandarln collar 189 有领座的领子collar with stand 有领座的宽领子wide collar and stand 远离颈部的领子和领座collar and stand away from the basic neckline 领子与领座为一片的衣领al in-one collar and stand 翻折领roll collars 领子变化的设计collar des iogn variations
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